Chapter VI: Glaciers and Summits.

The Giants Pass across the Wind.

The old route of the pioneers once connected the Atlantic coast with the border in Puerto Natales, an original passage that was used to avoid rivers and ranches. Now forgotten, it has since surrendered to the Patagonian steppe. The wind and the last glaciers of the region watched on like infinite witnesses as Tehuelche nomads, explorers and merchants passed by. Today, only adventurous travellers take this route.

This region is the obligatory stop before reaching the natural beauties that shape the Los Glaciares National Park, where the historic estancias reflect a pioneering spirit and lie on the side of the new route that transports us to another world.

This is a place that witnessed those revolutions led by country folk at the beginning of the 20th century. It was used as a detour for merchants who sought to avoid the fearsome Magellan Strait. And it served as a refuge for the Tehuelche people who survived by hunting and fishing from Lake Argentino. Such a fascinating history makes this region a must for a quintessential Patagonian expedition.

To the east are the region’s custodians; 13 giant masses of ice, they unleash huge icebergs on the crystal-clear waters of the lake. These chunks of ice begin their adventure towards the sea, leaving the inhabitants of Puerto Santa Cruz at the other end of the water in awe. Curious about these ice giants, they travelled across the river, without knowing where they came from.

Living in southern estancias, sharing rural work and contemplating millennial ice breaks are experiences worth living, passed on from generation to generation.

 
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